Aastavahetus Kõrgõzstani moodi/How to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Kyrgyzstan

Parem hilja kui mitte kunagi, eks. Kuidas möödusid minu jõulud [väga lühike jutt] ja aastavahetus [veidi pikem] Kõrgõzstanis? Mitte just halvasti, peaks ütlema.

Jõululaupäeval elasin ikka veel mägikülas nimega Kyzart, päike paistis, külma oli kuskil viie kraadi ringis ja jõulutunnet oli täpselt 0%. Muslimipere, kelle juures elasin, seda püha vastavalt usule just liiga tähtsaks ei pea, kuigi neil otseselt midagi selle vastu pole ka. Seega ärkasin jõululaupäeva hommikul üles nagu igal teiselgi päeval, leidsin mõned sõnumid ja e-kirjad heade soovidega Eestist, tegin pika jalutuskäigu, vaatasin filmi, läksin magama. Ahjaa, meenub veel vestlus minu pereemaga:

Madle: Tead, täna on Eestis üks aasta suurimaid pühasid. Näed, mu pere saatis meie kuusest pildi!

Mira: Ahsoo… nad vist igatsevad sind. [peseb nõusid edasi].

😀

Better late than never, right? Here comes a short story about my Christmas Eve in Kyzart and a bit longer story about my New Year’s Eve in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan.

During Christmas I was still living with a local Muslim family in the mountain village called Kyzart. December 24th turned out to be sunny, the temperature was around -5 degrees [Celsius] and the so called Christmas feeling inside me was unbelievable high [0% to be exact]. According to my family’s beliefs they don’t celebrate Christmas, so we all had a nice normal day. I woke up, received some cute messages from my friends and family, had a nice long walk in the mountains and went to sleep. Oh, I also had a not-so-everyday-conversation with my host mum.

Madle: You know, today is one of the biggest holidays in Estonia. Look, my family sent me a photo of our Christmas tree!

Mira: I see… They must miss you. [keep washing dishes]

😀

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Head soovid kohalikele… ee, lehmadele!/A sweet note for eeh… local cows! “Merry Christmas” in Estonian!

Aastavahetuse veetsin linnas nimega Karakol: suuruselt neljas linn Kõrgõzstanis, 150 km Hiina piirist ja kõrgus merepinnast ca 1770 meetrit. Linn on natuke võrreldav Tartuga Eestis. Igatahes – aastavahetus!

Päeval käisin linnas kohvikus, kui mu juurde astus üks kohalik kutt küsimusega, et kas ma olen Madlena Eestist. Ma olin natuke šokeeritud, et ma juba olen kuulus, aga vastasin jaatavalt. Tuli välja, et ma olin kuidagi talle CouchSurfingu [parim veebileht üldse, kes tasuta ööbida tahab ja kohalikest sõpru leida] kaudu meelde jäänud. Kuna tegemist oli elava Karakoli Entsüklopeediaga, siis lisaks ajaloole ja tähtsatele vaatamisväärsustele sain teada, et õhtune ilutulestik linna peaväljakul algab juba kell 10 [aga ei, ei see ei kesta 2h]. Läksin selle väärtusliku infoga hostelisse tagasi, kus uue aasta ootuses keetsime ühes inglastega glögi. Ainus vajalik vürts selle joogi tarbeks, mille suutsime kohalikust poest leida, oli nelgitera.

I spent my New Year’s Eve in the city called Karakol [altitude: 1770 meters], which is the fourth biggest city in Kyrgyzstan, located just 150 km from Chinese border.

During the daytime I decided to go to a cafe to have a coffee and use Internet. I took the first sip of my drink when one local guy turned to me: „Hey, you must be Madlena from Estonia, am I right?“. I felt a bit shocked as I didn’t expect that I’m already famous in the city. It turned out that he somehow recognized me because of the CouchSurfing webpage. I quickly realized he was The Living Wikipedia of Karakol – besides the knowledge of the history of the city and other facts I got to know that New Year’s fireworks starts at 10 pm [but no, it’s not gonna last 2 hours]. I soon went back to my hostel with this precious information and as we were waiting for the evening together with some travelers from England, we prepared some mulled wine.

bty
Päike loojub, 2018 jõuab lähemale! The sun is setting, 2018 is coming closer!

Veidi enne 10 õhtul kõndisime kiiresti [ma jään alati ilutulestikule hiljaks, aga jumal tänatud – siin kehtib Kõrgõzstani aeg] peaväljakule. Pisut külmetamist ja kohalike ning kuusega piltide tegemist ning oligi aeg! Nautisime paar minutit värvilist valgust, mis oli kuidagi Karakolile omaselt veidi kohmakas? -> kui nii saab ilutulestiku kohta öelda, aga sobis meile väga hästi! Siis avastasime, et loetud minutite jooksul olime väljakul pea ainsad, kõik kohalikud olid kodudesse tähistama jooksnud. Mõtlesime siis, et noh, kell 12 algab uus pidu, nii kaua võib kohvikus kartulisalatit süüa [nii Eesti, eks!]. Aga kui me kell 12 uuesti peaväljakul tagasi olime, siis oh üllatust, olime ikka ainsad lootusrikkad veidrad turistid. Peale mõne jõmpsika, kes väikseid rakette igas suunas tulistasid, polnud väga aru saada, et 2018 kätte oleks jõudnud.

Some minutes before 10 pm we rushed out from our hostel [I’m always late when it comes to fireworks – luckily it was Kyrgyz time] and walked to the main square. It was a bit crisp and while waiting for the show we made a lot of photos together with curious locals and a beautiful Christmas tree. Some minutes after 10 we enjoyed a bit clumsy fireworks which actually suited very well with the cool vibe surrounding us. Time passed fast and suddenly we found ourselves standing almost alone on the vast square. All the locals were gone to their homes to celebrate the holiday with their families! We then decided that well, we can go to the cafe and eat some potato salad [so Estonian, oh yeah!] until New Year takes over. We surprisingly managed to be back on the main square even some minutes before midnight but…. – we still continued to be those weird hopeful tourists, hanging around with a few little kids shooting their rockets meant under 12 years old.  

bty
Kell on 10, väljak on rahvast täis, ilutulestik kogub tuure./It’s 10pm, the square is full of people – let’s enjoy the fireworks!
bty
Kartulisalat! Potato salad!

Otsustasime minna ning lüüa klaase kokku mõnes pubis, kuid peale sihitut ringikõndimist [midagi jääb ikka tee peale] ning kohalikega konsulteerimist [„Kas kuskil on mõni baar avatud?“ – „Eeeee… Hmmm… Ummm… Jah, vist… Seal suunas..?“] sai selgeks, et kõik kohad on kinni. Niisiis ostsime veini ning vaatasime hostelis filmi. Ei saanud kurta, 2018 algas väga toredalt!

After a while we decided to go to a pub to say „Cheers!“ to 2018. We did some walk here and there and after consulting with the locals [„Are there any pubs opened nearby?“ – „Eeee….Hmmm…Ummm…Yes, maybe…This way?“] we understood that all the places were closed. So instead we bought a bottle of wine and watched a movie at the hostel. I’m not joking when I say that it was one of the greatest New Year celebrations I have ever had!

bty

 

Madlena ❤

 

 

 

 

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